Sacramento region under freeze warning through Friday
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Harvest ripe citrus ahead of a long period of frost. Icy citrus can turn to mush when the sun warms it. (Photo: Kathy Morrison)
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Are you ready for a big chill? Sacramento is about to get cold!
Widespread frost is forecast for the Sacramento region on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday mornings. Foothill communities could see overnight lows in the mid-20s.
A freeze warning will be in effect from 2 a.m. Wednesday to 9 a.m. Friday for all of the Sacramento Valley and northern San Joaquin Valley as well as the Mother Lode region and Delta communities, says the National Weather Service. Thursday morning before dawn is expected to see the lowest temperatures.
Expect “widespread areas of sub-freezing temperatures in the overnight and early morning hours,” says the weather service. “Frost and freeze conditions could kill crops, and other sensitive vegetation. Make sure pets have shelter from the cold. … Take steps now to protect tender plants from the cold.”
What makes this frost so dangerous is timing – both in duration and when. Areas could stay at or below freezing for six to eight hours, says the weather service. That’s enough chill to seriously damage or kill sensitive plants or seedlings.
The “when” part could have major consequences on harvests later this year. Many fruit and nut trees have already started blooming. This freeze could kill flower buds. The same goes for new growth on grapevines.
Also, honeybees need temperatures above 55 degrees to do their work. When blossoms open in frosty weather, they don’t get fertilized. This frost could be particularly rough on almond growers.
Harvest ripe citrus before the frost hits. Such long, cold periods can freeze oranges and lemons; when the sun warms that icy citrus, it will turn to mush.
Here are more frost tips:
* Deep-water sensitive plants; moisture in the soil can elevate temperatures just enough to prevent frost damage. The exception are succulents and cacti; pre-watering before frost can actually make damage worse.
* Frost injury occurs when ice crystals form on leaf surfaces and draw moisture out of the leaf. The damage from dehydration is what causes frost burn.
* Before the sun goes down, cover your sensitive plants with frost cloth, blankets or cloth sheets (not plastic) so radiant heat will help keep them cozy.
* Remember to uncover plants during the day (especially if it’s sunny) or they can be smothered by their frost protection.
* Move succulents in containers indoors or to sheltered areas if possible.
* Citrus trees (particularly young trees) tend to be susceptible to frost damage. Limes are the most frost-tender. Make sure they get some protection before frost hits.
* Wrap trunks of young citrus trees to insulate them from frost.
* Holiday lights – the old-fashioned kind that get hot, not LEDs – can help keep plants warm, too. Wrap a string of lights around the trunk and branches. Keep the lights on all night.
* Don’t overprotect. Plants are more frost-resistant if they’ve experienced some cold weather and winter hardening.
* If frost damage occurs, wait until March or April to prune off browned branches. That injured area will help protect the rest of the plant from additional frost burn.
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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8
Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.
* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.
* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).
* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.
* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.
* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.
* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.
* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.
* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.
* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.
* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.
* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth