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Rain and warmer weather bring … rust

How to tackle fungal outbreaks on roses without spraying

This rose is in the grip of the fungal disease known as rust. Cleanup and warmer weather will end the outbreak.

This rose is in the grip of the fungal disease known as rust. Cleanup and warmer weather will end the outbreak. Debbie Arrington

This is why we remove the old foliage from rose bushes each winter: Rust.

It’s easy to spot: This colorful fungal disease gets its apt nickname from the bright orange spores that form on the underside of leaves. The top surface of foliage becomes speckled with yellow blotches.

And when the conditions are just right – as in right now – this fungal disease can quickly infect a whole rose bush, including all the new healthy shoots trying to grow.

Rose rust – Phragmidium mucronatum – needs moist conditions (such as after a storm or on foggy mornings) and temperatures in the 60s to low 70s. A constant problem in coastal areas, rust hits Sacramento in late winter to early spring and again in the fall, usually November.

This week with abundant moisture and afternoons in the 60s, rust is breaking out all over Sacramento.

This outbreak was just waiting to happen. Rust spores spend their winter dormancy on old leaves – on or off the bush. When bushes aren’t pruned before an outbreak, the spores can spring into action almost overnight. Those spores infect the new tender foliage and cause it to whither before it can develop.

Rust ultimately causes the bush to shed its infected leaves (old and new). Without leaves, a rose bush struggles to survive – never mind producing flowers.

Fortunately, most bushes will sprout new leaves. As our afternoon temperatures warm into the 80s and 90s, rust disappears; it can’t take the heat.

In the meantime, the best way to attack rust is to cut it off. Remove infected leaves and discard in the trash. Fungal sprays are a temporary solution and require repeated spraying (as well as hitting the underside of leaves). Infected leaves will fall off anyway. Skip the spray and remove the rusty foliage before the fungus spreads any further.

If a bush wasn’t pruned this winter, go ahead and prune it now – just not severely. Aim to keep the bush about 3 to 4 feet tall after pruning. Cut off any old foliage and remove any fallen leaves that may have accumulated under the bush.

When pruning, try to improve air flow through the interior of the bush by removing some canes that grow towards the center. (Encourage the bush to grow out, not in.) Better air circulation helps cut down on fungal disease development; foliage dries quicker after rain.

Rake out the old mulch under bushes, too, and replace it with fresh wood chips or other organic mulch. Old mulch can harbor dormant fungal spores, not just rust but powdery mildew and black spot.

To avoid rust outbreaks later in spring, water roses with irrigation underneath the bushes – not overhead. When using water to knock off aphids, spray bushes in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry before the afternoon.

For more on rose diseases and prevention, check out these recommendations from the UC integrated pest management program:https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7463.html.

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Garden Checklist for week of Jan. 12

Once the winds die down, it’s good winter gardening weather with plenty to do:

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees. (The exceptions are apricot and cherry trees, which are susceptible to a fungus that causes dieback. Save them until summer.) Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* After the wind stops, apply horticultural oil to fruit trees to control scale, mites and aphids. Oils need 24 hours of dry weather after application to be effective.

* This is also the time to spray a copper-based fungicide to peach and nectarine trees to fight leaf curl. (The safest effective fungicides available for backyard trees are copper soap -- aka copper octanoate -- or copper ammonium, a fixed copper fungicide. Apply either of these copper products with 1% horticultural oil to increase effectiveness.)

* When forced bulbs sprout, move them to a cool, bright window. Give them a quarter turn each day so the stems will grow straight.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

* Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs.

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladioli for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Plant blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. If you’re shopping for these beautiful landscape plants, you can now find them in full flower at local nurseries.

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