How to tackle fungal outbreaks on roses without spraying
This rose is in the grip of the fungal disease known as rust. Cleanup and warmer weather will end the outbreak. Debbie Arrington
It’s easy to spot: This colorful fungal disease gets its apt nickname from the bright orange spores that form on the underside of leaves. The top surface of foliage becomes speckled with yellow blotches.
And when the conditions are just right – as in right now – this fungal disease can quickly infect a whole rose bush, including all the new healthy shoots trying to grow.
Rose rust – Phragmidium mucronatum – needs moist conditions (such as after a storm or on foggy mornings) and temperatures in the 60s to low 70s. A constant problem in coastal areas, rust hits Sacramento in late winter to early spring and again in the fall, usually November.
This week with abundant moisture and afternoons in the 60s, rust is breaking out all over Sacramento.
This outbreak was just waiting to happen. Rust spores spend their winter dormancy on old leaves – on or off the bush. When bushes aren’t pruned before an outbreak, the spores can spring into action almost overnight. Those spores infect the new tender foliage and cause it to whither before it can develop.
Rust ultimately causes the bush to shed its infected leaves (old and new). Without leaves, a rose bush struggles to survive – never mind producing flowers.
Fortunately, most bushes will sprout new leaves. As our afternoon temperatures warm into the 80s and 90s, rust disappears; it can’t take the heat.
In the meantime, the best way to attack rust is to cut it off. Remove infected leaves and discard in the trash. Fungal sprays are a temporary solution and require repeated spraying (as well as hitting the underside of leaves). Infected leaves will fall off anyway. Skip the spray and remove the rusty foliage before the fungus spreads any further.
If a bush wasn’t pruned this winter, go ahead and prune it now – just not severely. Aim to keep the bush about 3 to 4 feet tall after pruning. Cut off any old foliage and remove any fallen leaves that may have accumulated under the bush.
When pruning, try to improve air flow through the interior of the bush by removing some canes that grow towards the center. (Encourage the bush to grow out, not in.) Better air circulation helps cut down on fungal disease development; foliage dries quicker after rain.
Rake out the old mulch under bushes, too, and replace it with fresh wood chips or other organic mulch. Old mulch can harbor dormant fungal spores, not just rust but powdery mildew and black spot.
To avoid rust outbreaks later in spring, water roses with irrigation underneath the bushes – not overhead. When using water to knock off aphids, spray bushes in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry before the afternoon.
For more on rose diseases and prevention, check out these recommendations from the UC integrated pest management program:https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7463.html.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Sept. 1: Yarrow an easy-care, sturdy flowering plant
Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer
Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 30
Enjoy this mild late-summer weather – and get to work!
* September starts another season in the vegetable garden. Now is the time to plant for fall. The warm soil will get these veggies off to a fast start.
* Keep harvesting tomatoes, peppers, squash, melons and eggplant.
* Compost annuals and vegetable crops that have finished producing.
* Cultivate and add compost to the soil to replenish its nutrients for fall and winter vegetables and flowers.
* Fertilize deciduous fruit trees.
* Plant onions, lettuce, peas, radishes, turnips, beets, carrots, bok choy, spinach and potatoes directly into the vegetable beds.
* Transplant cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower as well as lettuce seedlings.
* Sow seeds of California poppies, clarkia and African daisies. Transplant cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas, fairy primroses, calendulas, stocks and snapdragons.
* Divide and replant bulbs, rhizomes and perennials.
* Dig up and divide daylilies as they complete their bloom cycle.
* Divide and transplant peonies that have become overcrowded. Replant with “eyes” about an inch below the soil surface.
Contact Us
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth