Recipe: A cobbler perfect for a seasonal transition
Spices give Asian pears a subtle boost in flavor in this summer-into-fall cobbler. Kathy Morrison
A gift of Asian pears sent me on a search for seasonal recipes. I believed that this orchard fruit, which exists somewhere between apple and standard pear, was always served raw, crunchy. So did most of the recipe writers, apparently. I found many salads that included it -- including an intriguing slaw.
Was there a way to cook this lovely summer-into-fall fruit? The weather was turning cooler -- baking weather! Then I found a New York Times recipe, "Fruit Cobbler with Any Fruit."
I took that title as a challenge, not a statement. The cobbler here is my riff on the recipe, with several adjustments to the filling, and a suggestion for changing up the biscuit topping, too.
It is an excellent dessert (especially with vanilla ice cream), but could make a lovely brunch dish. To test it, I made just a half recipe of the filling, though mixed a full recipe of the biscuits so I could freeze some for another time. The recipe version printed here is the full 8 servings.
A note on the fruit: Asian pears ARE crunchy, right off the tree. Several of mine had just started to soften, however, so I used those first, but included 1 crunchy pear to see how it baked. I tossed in a Bosc pear that was at the use-it-now-or-compost-it-tomorrow stage.
The filling's baked texture was firm but thoroughly cooked, like baking with firm apples. My fruit was small -- see the photo -- so I needed about 9 of them to reach 5 cups.
The original recipe had no spices in it, but I had to include cardamom, which plays so well with pears. Cinnamon and just a hint of ginger went in, too. But use what you like -- almond extract would be another possible addition. Next time I might include some crystallized ginger bits among the pears.
Spiced Asian pear cobbler
Serves 8
Ingredients:
Biscuits:
1-3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (or 1-1/2 cup flour and 1/4 cup fine cornmeal)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed
1/2 cup buttermilk (or plain yogurt, not Greek)
1/4 cup heavy cream, plus 1 tablespoon, divided
Filling:
10 to 11 cups peeled, cored and sliced Asian pears, or a mix of Asian and Bosc pears
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3 tablespoons minute tapioca OR 1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
Turbinado or other crunchy sugar, for sprinkling
Instructions:
Cover a small rimmed baking sheet or large plate with a piece of parchment or waxed paper. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, soda and salt. Cut in the cold butter cubes with a pastry cutter or two knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, combine the dry ingredients in a food processsor, add the butter, and pulse a few times to cut in the butter. )
Drizzle in the buttermilk and 1/4 cup cream, and stir (or pulse) until the mixture is just combined.
Pat the dough together, either in the bowl or on a lightly floured surface. Using a soup spoon or one of similar size, scoop 2-inch mounds of dough and roll them into balls with your hands. Place the balls on the parchment-covered baking sheet or plate, leaving space between them. The recipe will yield about 10 balls.
Flatten the balls with your hand to 3/4-inch thick, cover them with plastic, then place the baking sheet or plate in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes and up to 8 hours. (A quick chill in the freezer works, too, but don't forget they're in there!)
Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, toss together the prepared pears, the sugars, spices and the minute tapioca or cornstarch. Allow to sit for 20 minutes -- this hydrates the tapioca pearls.
When ready to bake, pour the fruit (and any accumulated juices) into a large baking dish or 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Top the fruit with the biscuits, leaving space between them to expand. Brush the biscuits with the remaining 1 tablespoon cream, then sprinkle on the turbinado or other crunchy sugar.
Bake until the biscuits are golden brown and you can see bubbling among the fruit, about 1 hour. (About 50 minutes for a 1/2 recipe.) Remove the pan to a cooling rack and allow to cool 30 minutes before serving; the biscuits and fruit will still be warm. Or allow to cool completely and serve later at room temperature.
Note on freezing the extra biscuits for later: I double-wrapped them before freezing. They should bake fine straight from the freezer, though likely will require a few additional minutes.
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Food in My Back Yard Series
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of June 15
Make the most of this “average” weather; your garden is growing fast! (So are the weeds!)
* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.
* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don’t let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.
* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
* Pull weeds before they go to seed.
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather. It also helps smother weeds.
* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.